Coast To Coast Walk 2

Coast To Coast Walk 2 – Keld, Yorkshire Dales To Robin Hood’s Bay

This is an map image of the  Coast To Coast Walk in Walks In Tameside.

At the beginning of April 2004 we started the Coast To Coast Walk 2. As it was too early in the season for the Packhorse baggage service we used the Sherpa Van Project instead. This week we would be walking the 99½ miles of the Coast To Coast Walk 2 from Keld in the Yorkshire Dales to Robin Hood’s Bay in North Yorkshire.

Day 1 – Keld to Reeth (12.5 miles)  We stayed overnight at the excellent Butt House in Keld, run by Doreen and Ernest Whitehead. Doreen also produces the Coast To Coast Walk Accommodation Guide a useful publication for anyone contemplating the walk.

This is an image of Butt house in Keld on the Coast To Coast Walk 2 in Walks In Tameside.After a lovely full english breakfast we were packed and off on the road. First we crossed the footbridge  over the River Swale, then climbed to have great views of the Swaledale Valley. We carried on to the start of the disused lead mines at the top of Swinner Gill and then over the moors to more workings before reaching Gunnerside Gill.

Down we went across the Gill and climbed again to pass further workings for the next 4 miles until Surrender Bridge at a narrow moorland road. The scenery around the old lead mines isn’t the best on the Coast To Coast Walk 2. From here, with mainly farmland to cross, the scenery improved and we reached our accommodation for the night at a farmhouse half a mile outside Reeth.

The accommodation was excellent and the owner offered to pick us up after we had dined and drank in Reeth. Fortunately, as a jazz fan, I was delighted to hear that the Reeth Jazz Festival was in progress, so for me at least, that made the night even more special.

Day 2 – Reeth to Richmond (10.5 miles) For the second day running another great breakfast was served and we were soon heading back into Reeth for the journey to Richmond.

This is an image of Reeth on the Coast To Coast Walk 2 in Walks In Tameside.The days walk started on the B road to Richmond for just under a mile to Low Fremmingto. Then for the next two miles we closely followed the River Swale past the remains of Marrick Priory until heading north east to Marrick.

Although the ground was wet underfoot, it was a nice change to travel through good farmland after the previous days ‘delights’ of the disused lead mines. Marske was the next target, then through the wooded areas of Applegarth, Whitcliffe Scar and Whitcliffe Wood with the River Swale close by down below.

Richmond soon came into view and after depositing the rucksacks in our bedrooms we took a tour of the town. It was early afternoon and with the ladies more interested in window shopping, my pal and I took ourselves off to the nearest pub to taste the local offering of Draught Guinness. After an hour or so the ladies extracted us from the pub and after a shower and change of clothes we dined in the local Indian restaurant where we were served the biggest nan bread I have ever seen. It must have been 15″ in diameter. We stayed in the B&B run by the same people who owned the Sherpa Van project and I have to say the baggage service on the Coast To Coast Walk was better than the hospitality.

Day 3 – Richmond to Ingleby Cross (23 miles) This was to be the longest days walk of the week. Our destination at the Blue Bell Inn at Ingleby Cross boasted ‘Wainwright stayed here, real ales and real fires’.

This is an image of Richmond on the Coast To Coast Walk 2 in Walks In Tameside.This was to be a day of mainly flat walking and the route soon passed the delights of a sewerage works by the riverside. Through the woods, past the ruins of Hagg Farm and into the village of Colburn, then under the busy A1 road over Catterick Bridge.

The track followed alongside the River Swale for a mile before joining a minor road, then on into the village of Bolton-on-Swale. Next was a short stretch along Bolton Beck before 3 miles of minor road walking to Streetlam. A welcome mile across farmland followed, then half a mile of road again to Danby Wiske.

We had a half hour stop for refreshments at the White Swan in Danby Wiske, then it was road walking again for 2 miles. Next was 6 miles of farmland to the  busy A19 and a quick crossing dodging the traffic.

First Ingleby Arncliffe, then in a few minutes Ingleby Cross and the prospect of ‘real ales and real fires’. The first disappointment was the accommodation, we were billeted in a bunkhouse that had certainly seen better days. After 23 miles of walking we were in no mood to look elsewhere. The food was average pub grub but they did serve real ale, so we drowned our sorrows and hoped tomorrow would see an improvement in the hiking on the Coast To Coast walk 2 and also the class of accommodation.

Day 4 – Ingleby Cross to Clay Bank Top (13.5 miles) After the previous evenings disappointment we had a shorter walk today and would be entering the North York Moors National Park. Also we would be gaining higher ground.

This is an image of Ingleby Cross on the Coast To Coast Walk 2 in Walks In Tameside.After a mediocre breakfast we were off in the rain and glad to be out of the Blue Bell’s bunkhouse at last. In fact the rain never stopped all day.

South Wood was the first objective, then Beacon Hill with it’s grotesque television transmitters, although it is a good viewpoint. Next came the route through Clain Wood and the hamlet of Huthwaite Green, then the climb to Round Hill at 1,025 ft.

It was then a slight climb to the ridge of  Carlton Moor, where there is now a landing strip for a gliding club. The summit at 1,338 ft was another good viewpoint. We descended to cross a minor road and then ascended the summit of Cringle Moor. At 1,427 ft, this was the highest point of the day.

From here it was a steep descent to Garfit Gap, then a climb to pass the Wainstones and the flat top of Hasty Bank. It  was a splendid days hill walking to finally reach Clay Bank Top and our self contained apartment for the night along the B1257 at Urra. We were made extremely welcome and wined and dined whilst watching the Champions League semi-final.

Day 5 – Clay Bank Top to Blakey Ridge (11 miles) A good nights sleep, an excellent breakfast and we were off in a biting early April wind.

This is an image of Clay Bank Top on the Coast To Coast Walk 2 in Walks In Tameside.We didn’t retrace our steps along the B1257, instead our hosts showed us a track over Urra Moor that met the coast to coast path at Round Hill.

Round Hill at 1,489 ft is the highest point on the North York Moors. We were now on the track which once carried a railway line, and a mile and a half later we reached Bloworth Crossing where it meets the Cleveland Way. We followed the curves of the line of the old railway, which is part of the Lyke Wake Walk, for a flat 5 miles to reach our destination at the Lion Inn at Blakey.

The landscape is bleak here and photographs at the Lion Inn show snow up to the roof in parts, it’s certainly not a place to be caught in a blizzard. We arrived early afternoon and after being shown to our rooms the ladies left us to enjoy the bar offerings. An excellent meal in the evening and a couple of drinks later and we called it a day.

Day 6 – Blakey Ridge to Grosmont (12.5 miles) We were now only two days walking from our final destination at Robin Hood’s Bay.

This is an image of the Lion Inn at Blakey Ridge on the Coast To Coast Walk 2 in Walks In Tameside.From the Lion Inn we headed down the road for a mile, then turned right to pass below Rosedale Head. Another mile and a half of tarmac and track brought us to the shooting hut at Trough House.

From here a muddy footpath over the moor above Great Fryup Dale brought us to another minor road above Glaisdale Rigg. After a mile we turned right on a track to pass a trig point and continued over Glaisdale Moor. In under 3 miles we reached the village of Glaisdale where we stopped for refreshments in the local pub.

After Glaisdale we walked by the River Esk and through East Arncliffe Wood, then along the road to the beautiful Egton Bridge where we crossed the river and followed the track by the river for a mile and a half to reach Grosmont. Grosmont has a railway station where enthusiasts have kept the line to Goathland open. We dined in the Station Tavern next to the railway station and had a good evening despite our accommodation only being average.

Day 7 – Grosmont to Robin Hood’s Bay (16.5 miles)  After two weeks walking and many miles covered, this was the final trek to our destination, Robin Hood’s Bay on the North Sea coast.

This is an image of Grosmont on the Coast To Coast Walk 2 in Walks In Tameside.With spirits high we set off to finish a two year project of completing the Coast To Coast Walk. The mile walk east out of Grosmont was steep until we headed off left to pass the old quarries at Black Brow.

With no distinct path it was then a question of picking our way through the heather at Flat Howe to the A169 Whitby road.

Next was a path descending to the hamlet of Littlebeck, after which we headed along May Beck, in the woods, to the Falling Foss waterfall. Continuing through the woods brought us to a road, where after heading uphill for half a mile we took the track across Sneaton Low Moor. The track soon disappeared and eventually the ground became very boggy.

We soon reached another road which after half a mile we left to cross Graystone Hills. This 2 mile trek across peaty moorland was a case of picking our way through the peat bogs.

This is an image of Robin Hood's Bay on the Coast To Coast Walk 2 in Walks In Tameside.At last we reached another road,  which after a mile brought us into the hamlet of High Hawsker. We then crossed the A171 Scarborough to Whitby road.

Onward past a caravan site, then over the track of a disused railway line, past another caravan site and we were heading down to the cliff top path from Whitby to Robin Hood’s Bay. 

We were now on the last two and a half  miles of the walk and from here we had spectacular cliff top views over the North Sea.

We rounded the headland of Ness Point and Robin Hood’s Bay came into view. The descent continued past the coastguard station, bed and breakfast establishments and down the steep narrow street leading to the slipway on the bay.

This is an image of the plaque at the end of the Coast To Coast Walk 2 in Walks In Tameside.

 
We had done it and we dipped our feet in the North Sea, as we had done at St Bees. We celebrated with a pint or three at the Bay Hotel, as many thousands had done before us.

So what were the overall impressions of the Coast To Coast Walk? Well, I would say out of all the long distance paths and national trails that I have completed, it would have to be in the top three. Highly recommended, with the highlight being the traverse of the Lake District. It has been suggested that the next time we hike the Coast To Coast Walk, we will travel from East to West. 

Related Content:
Coast To Coast Walk Part 1

All 6’s

All 6’s – A Classic Example Of The British Tourist Industry

This is an image related to the story of all 6's in Walks In Tameside.The all 6’s story is one of the funniest things to have happened on our regular long distance footpath walks. It happened during May 2006. We were walking the 92 miles/148 km (with extension), Rob Roy Way in Scotland, from Drymen to Pitlochry. On the third day of our journey we were walking from Callendar to Strathyre.

This is the story of the all 6’s. On reaching our accommodation for the evening at one of the local hostelries, which shall be nameless, as it has now changed hands, we were greeted by the landlady who was sweeping the stairs at the time.

“You must be the walkers” she announced, I suppose the rucksacks and boots gave it away. I will show you to your rooms she declared. With that the six of us all followed her upstairs and arrived at a long corridor. To the first pair she said “you two are in number 6 over here”. She then promptly ushered them into their bedroom for the night.

Out she came and said to the next two “you’re in number 6 down the corridor, I will show you where it is”, and off she trotted again. Well, the two of us remaining were already beginning to chuckle at this all 6’s business. She returned to state “you two have the ensuite, here’s your room, (yes, number 6 again) your bathroom is across the corridor”.

Well how we stopped shaking with laughter I don’t know but as she disappeared she finished with ” if you have wet clothing and boots, there’s a drying room at the end of the corridor, it’s number 6″.

By this time the other four had left their rooms to see what was amusing us so much. Of course, since that day we always ask “is it ensuite or ensuite-ish”. We presumed that the local hardware store had a bargain at the time on number sixes.

So we all desended to the bar, where the ladies husband was supposed to be serving. We found him on an armchair with his feet on a stool watching cricket. He ignored us for a few minutes, before finally deciding to break off from his viewing, to reluctantly serve us. We decided that as the weather was OK we would sit at one of the two tables outside by the road.

That didn’t last long, the wind had increased and heavy goods vehicles were roaring past within a few feet of us. So it was back inside but not before a strong gust had ripped the umbrella from it’s table and swept it down the road. Well by this time we had given up hope and decided that we were definitely not dining at all 6’s that evening.

This is an image of boiled eggs as related in the story of all 6's in Walks In Tameside.We noticed another pub not far away and decided we would try there for an evening meal. Before leaving all 6’s, I asked the landlady if I could have a couple of boiled eggs for breakfast. I certainly didn’t fancy a full cooked breakfast at this establishment. To my amazement she said “well I suppose so, as long as you all don’t want it”. It turned out she thought, for what reason I cannot imagine, that I wanted two boiled eggs as well as a full cooked breakfast!

When we arrived at the alternative hostelry they were just starting a pub quizz and we were invited to take part. During the day we had been discussing the ladyboys in Thailand, so decided to call our team ‘The Ladyboys’. We didn’t realise at the time that the two joint proprietors and quizz masters serving at the bar were ‘batting for the other side’ so to say.

The meal was a disaster and the following morning at breakfast the landlady of all 6’s, greeted us with “you didn’t dine here last night, we are famous for our pizzas you know”. She then proceeded to tell us about a doctor who had stayed for a night and refused to pay his bill. He said “the place was a shambles” she continued, to our amusement. “We are moving out soon, somebody else is taking over” were her final remarks before disappearing into the kitchen.

Thank goodness, we too were moving out of all 6’s within the hour. You really couldn’t write it.

Related Content:
Rob Roy Way Part 1
Rob Roy Way Part 2