Pennine Way 2 – Garrigill To Horton-In-Ribblesdale
In September 2010 we embarked on the Pennine Way 2 journey. The previous year we had walked from Kirk Yetholm to Garrigill. We started again at Garrigill in Cumbria and walked to Horton-In-Ribblesdale in the Yorkshire Dales. We covered a total of 87.4 miles on the Pennine Way 2 during the weeks walking.
Day 1 Garrigill to Dufton (16.3 miles)
We were staying in Appleby for 2 nights, so after an early breakfast a taxi was ordered to take us to Garrigill, an hours drive away. Pennine Way 2 started with a long steady climb up the Corpse Road to Greg’s Hut, a bothy just before Cross Fell. The summit of Cross Fell is the highest point on the Pennine Way at 893 metres/2,930 ft.
From Cross Fell it was on to Great Dun Fell, then began the long downhill section to Dufton, where upon arrival the Stag Inn was a very welcome sight. We were told the landlord from our visit in 2009 had died and there was no chef anymore. Beer, nuts and crisps were the only option before the lift back to Appleby arrived.
We had a night on the town in Appleby and on arriving back at the Royal Oak, our accommodation for the evening, we found the place all locked up and in darkness. Eventually after a lot of door knocking we gained entry. Pennine Way 2 was proving to be as eventful as Pennine Way 1.
Day 2 Dufton to Langdon (13.8 miles)
A weary foursome emerged for breakfast and then it was a taxi ride to Dufton. We were soon on our way again, this time in rain.
A steady climb ensued on this Pennine Way 2 journey, to High Cup Nick, which was a favourite spot named in all the guide books. Due to mist, no views of the days supposed highlight could be seen. The trail continued along Maize Beck for a while until it turned inland to cross by the MOD danger area. Finally after a long boggy trek and a detour around Cauldron Snout waterfall and the slippery climb down rocks, the beck was rejoined. In most places it covered the submerged trail. Despite the belief that it would not be possible to continue, after lot of clambering over rocks, the path was regained.
Eventually the destination pick up point was reached at Langdon and a kind lady gave us a lift to the local pub, where the beer was enjoyed by all. Lynda, our landlady for the next three nights arrived to transport us back to our billet. After showering, we went to the hotel next door, where a few beers and a poor excuse for a meal were taken.
This proved to be probably the best days walking of the week. After being dropped back at Langdon we started by walking along the River Tees to the High Force waterfall and then the Low Force waterfall. The sun was shining but upon reaching Middleton-in-Teesdale the rain came down.
In driving rain the path took us over the fell and down to Lunedale and Grassholme Reservoir where our pick up was waiting.
With the quality of food the previous evening leaving a lot to be desired, it was decided to partake of the local fish and chips. These were taken back to our accommodation at The Old Barn and consumed together with two bottles of wine supplied by Dave. A visit to the local hotel was next on the agenda and Dave and I left Barry and Keith to their merriment’s, as we had decided to have an early night.
Day 4 Grassholme Reservoir to the Tan Hill Inn (13.9 miles)
This was a long slog of a day over bleak scenery. It started OK at Grassholme Reservoir and carried on up above the Blackton and Hury reservoirs. Then it was down to Bowes with it’s medieval castle and the trek by Sleightholme Beck. Finally we crossed the swamp land over Sleightholme Moor before finally arriving for welcome refreshments at the Tan Hill Inn. Lynda once again saved the day and took us back to our accommodation in Middleton-inTeesdale.
After visiting the only other establishment that offered food, and dismissing it as unsuitable, the chippy was again decided upon for nourishment. The obligatory two bottles of wine were obtained and promptly dispatched. The local hotel was again visited to round off the evening.
Day 5 Tan Hill Inn to Hawes (17 miles)
Lynda, who provided the best accommodation of the week at The Old Barn, again dropped us at the starting point and we said our goodbyes. The walk to Hawes, after a unpromising start, proved to be another good day with excellent scenery especially around Keld.
From the Tan Hill Inn we walked over Stonesdale Moor to Keld. Keith and I had previously stayed overnight in Keld during the Coast to Coast Walk so knew there was no pub here. It had closed a long time ago. From Keld we walked on the picturesque ridge, then down to Thwaite. A welcome lunchtime stop at Thwaite was spoilt by the beer tasting of bleach. This was reported to the landlord and we eventually had to settle for cans of Guinness.
Next followed the long trek to the summit of Great Shunner Fell, at 716 metres/2,350 ft, the fifth highest point on the Pennine Way. A long walk downhill to Hawes followed, where Dave found a local hostelry near Hardraw Force waterfall.
A gentle stroll across grassland brought us to the centre of Hawes, where the only option while waiting for our pick up, was to rehydrate at a roadside pub. Our accommodation for the next two evenings was in Horton-in-Ribblesdale. We later enjoyed an excellent meal there at one of the local pubs, The Crown.
Day 6 Hawes to Horton-in-Ribblesdale (13.1 miles)
After being dropped back in Hawes, the final days walking on the Pennine way 2 journey started. After a steady climb from Hawes the track of West Cam Road was reached and there were good views to the right. The Roman road of Cam High Road, south of Dodd Fell was next on the itinerary. We eventually left it with the Ribblehead viaduct in view.
The final destination of the week on the Pennine Way 2, Horton-in-Ribblesdale, was reached and a celebration in The Crown was deemed a suitable way to finish the weeks efforts. The evenings custom was again given to The Crown and then a walk to the only alternative venue rounded off the Pennine Way 2 weeks adventures.